Shutter Speed: Freezing Moments Underwater

This is Part 4 of a 10 part Natural Light Photography Series.

In underwater photography, your shutter speed plays a crucial role in capturing sharp, dynamic images. Whether you’re photographing the graceful glide of a shark or the lightning-fast movements of a dolphin, choosing the right shutter speed is essential. In this blog, I’ll share my approach to setting shutter speed for natural light photography and explain why it’s one of the most critical tools in your underwater arsenal.

The Basics of Shutter Speed Underwater

Shutter speed determines how long your camera’s sensor is exposed to light. A faster shutter speed freezes motion, while a slower shutter speed lets in more light but risks motion blur. In underwater photography, where both you and your subject are often moving, this balance becomes even more delicate.

Understanding Shutter Speed: From freezing fast motion to creating smooth, dreamy effects – master the art of light and movement.

When shooting with strobes, a common shutter speed is 1/125, but for natural light photography, it’s a whole different story. Your settings will depend on:

• The subject’s speed and movement

• The available light

• Your ability to stay steady while shooting

My Go-To Shutter Speeds

1. Slow-Moving Subjects (e.g., Tiger Sharks, whales):

   • Shutter Speed: 1/320

   • Why: Tiger sharks and whales move at a slow, deliberate pace, but both the animals and I are in motion. At 1/320, I can confidently capture their details without motion blur.

2. Fast-Moving Subjects (e.g., Dolphins, Sea lions):

   • Shutter Speed: 1/500

   • Why: Dolphins and sea lions are incredibly fast and often unpredictable. A faster shutter speed ensures I can freeze their motion, even while swimming hard to keep up. For fast-moving animals, 1/500 is my absolute minimum. While I would prefer to go higher for an even crisper image, doing so often requires increasing the ISO, which can introduce too much noise into my photos. Finding the right balance is key when shooting in natural light underwater.

3. Low-Light Conditions (e.g., Orcas in Norway):

   • Shutter Speed: 1/125 or lower (if necessary)

   • Why: In places like Norway, where sunlight is limited or non-existent during winter, slower shutter speeds are unavoidable. While this can lead to some blur or grain (due to higher ISO), it’s often the only way to get a usable image.

Why I Stick to 1/320 for Most Shots

For the wildlife I typically photograph—big, toothy animals like sharks—1/320 has become my magic number. It’s fast enough to freeze motion while still allowing enough light for a well-exposed image. Some might say it’s on the higher side, but for me, it strikes the perfect balance for sharp, detailed results.

When to Adjust Shutter Speed

• Increase Shutter Speed: For faster animals or when shooting in bright conditions.

• Decrease Shutter Speed: In low-light environments or when photographing slower-moving subjects.

Practical Tips for Underwater Shutter Speed

1. Keep Your Camera Steady: Even the slightest movement can cause blur when shooting underwater. Practice controlling your breathing and staying as still as possible.

2. Test and Adapt: Start with a base shutter speed (like 1/320) and adjust based on the animal and lighting conditions.

3. Use Your Histogram: Check your histogram regularly to ensure your exposure is balanced, especially when adjusting shutter speed.

The Importance of Experimentation

Shutter speed isn’t a one-size-fits-all setting. It depends on your subject, the conditions, and your creative goals. The more you experiment, the better you’ll understand what works for your style of photography and the animals you love to capture.

Coming Next

In the next blog, I’ll dive into aperture—another critical setting for natural light photography. Learn how to achieve the perfect depth of field and ensure your subjects are always in focus, even when shooting blind. Stay tuned!

PART ONE - Is Natural Light Photography Photography For You?
PART TWO - The Euphotic Zone! Your best friend.
PART THREE - Custom White Balance, Natural Lights Secret Weapon.

Custom White Balance: The Key to Vibrant Underwater Images

This is Part 3 of a 10 part Natural Light Photography Series.

View fullsize

Thresher Shark off Malapascua Island, Phillipeans. Depth 70’ 1/250, f8, ISO 1250

When it comes to natural light photography underwater, no tool is more important than custom white balance. This technique allows you to compensate for the loss of color as you descend and is essential for capturing vibrant, true-to-life images. If you don’t master this skill, you’ll struggle to retain the natural beauty of the underwater world in your photos.

Why Custom White Balance Matters

Underwater, colors disappear quickly:

• Reds vanish at around 15 feet.

• Oranges at 30 feet.

• Yellows at 60 feet.
  By the time you’re at 100 feet, you’re left with muted greens and blues.

Reef off Malapascua Island, Philippines. Depth 50 feet. 1/160, f4.5, ISO 800

Custom white balance tells your camera what “white” should look like in your current conditions, helping it correctly interpret other colors. Without it, even the most perfectly composed shots will appear dull and washed out. While post-processing can help to some extent, getting it right in-camera is the best way to ensure your images look stunning.

How to Set Custom White Balance

1. Ignore Camera Presets:
   Built-in white balance presets (e.g., “daylight” or “cloudy”) aren’t designed for underwater use and won’t give you accurate results. Go straight to custom white balance mode.

2. Find a Reference Object:
   Snap a photo of something white or gray that’s lit by the same light you’ll be shooting in. This tells your camera what white should look like in those conditions. Common references include:

   • White balance cards (designed for underwater use)

   • The sand on the ocean floor (a favorite of mine)

   • White fins, wetsuit trim, or dive slates

3. Recalibrate Often:
   Light changes as you descend or ascend, so you’ll need to adjust your custom white balance every 10 to 20 feet to maintain accurate color representation.

Great Hammerhead off Tiger Beach, Bahamas. Depth 40 feet. 1/320, f8, ISO 250

What If You Don’t Have a White Balance Card?

Improvisation is key! Some options I’ve used include:

• The bottom of a boat (if it’s white)

• A diver’s tank (as a gray reference)

• Propeller blades when swimming near the surface

Just be sure to communicate with your dive buddies beforehand if you plan to use their gear for calibration. No one wants to feel awkward when they catch you taking close-ups of their fins or tank!

Schooling Jacks at Cabo Pulmo, MX. Depth 50 feet. 1/320, f9, ISO 640

Tips for Success

• Experiment Until You’re Happy: Don’t be afraid to adjust multiple times during a dive. Each dive site and condition is different, and the more you practice, the better you’ll become.

• Pre-Set Your Camera Settings: Before setting white balance, make sure your shutter speed, aperture, and ISO are already dialed in for the conditions. This ensures a balanced exposure and gives you a better foundation to work with.

• Use the Histogram: Check your histogram regularly to confirm proper exposure and avoid relying solely on the camera’s LCD screen, which can be misleading underwater.

The Freedom to Create

Once you’ve mastered custom white balance, you’ll unlock a new level of creative freedom in your photography. You’ll be able to produce vibrant images that capture the underwater world as you see it—full of life and color.

Coming Next

In the next blog, we’ll explore shutter speed and how to use it effectively to capture movement underwater. From slow-moving sharks to speedy dolphins, mastering your shutter speed is critical to creating sharp, dynamic images. Stay tuned!

PART ONE - Is Natural Light Photography Photography For You?
PART TWO - The Euphotic Zone! Your best friend.